6 Motorcycle Maintenance Tasks You Can Do Yourself
Key Takeaways
Start with your owner's manual
Every bike is different—fluid types, change intervals, filter locations, and torque specs all vary. A rear stand helps if your bike doesn't have a center stand, and warming the engine briefly makes oil changes easier.
Tires and brakes are your most important safety checks
Use the PSI listed in your manual or on the frame placard—not the max on the tire sidewall—and check pressure when tires are cold. Inspect brake pads regularly and replace brake fluid every one to two years; spongy brakes or grinding noises mean it's time to act.
Don't skip the details on fluids and filters
Flush the cooling system with distilled water before adding new coolant to avoid mixing incompatible formulas. Keep the air filter clean for better performance, and clean and lubricate your O-ring chain on schedule to extend its life.
When it comes to motorcycles, a little do-it-yourself maintenance could save you money and help keep you safe—and also empower you. "I like knowing that I'm the caretaker of my machines," says Paul Olesen, a Wisconsinite who runs DIY Moto Fix. "There's a sense of confidence every time I ride the bike that everything's just right." Here are Olesen's top tips for mastering your own motorcycle maintenance.
In practice, the requirements of each of these tasks can vary depending on your bike. Consult your owner's manual before beginning to educate yourself about matters such as the location of filters and plugs, and which parts you must remove to access them; proper amounts and types of various fluids, and intervals for changing them; and torque specifications for reinstalling nuts and bolts to proper tightness. For bikes that lack a center stand, use a rear stand device to position them upright.
1. Change The Oil
To keep your engine running properly, you'll need to change the oil after several thousand miles—check the owner's manual to find out how often. To begin, you'll want to ride the bike for about five minutes just to warm it up. "This lowers the viscosity of the oil so it will drain easier," explains Olesen. With the engine off and the bike standing upright, remove the drain plug as well as the oil fill plug, letting the oil escape into a drain pan. (You may need to remove some fairing to reach the drain plug.) Also, take out the oil filter. (Warning: This process can get messy! Try covering the engine and/or exhaust section with aluminum foil to protect against drippage.) Once the oil is drained, install a new oil filter, put back any parts you had removed, and refill using a funnel and the proper amount and type of motorcycle oil, as specified in the owner's manual. Replace the oil fill cap. Recycle the used oil at a bike shop or municipal facility.
2. Replace The Air Filter
If your motorcycle's air filter—which keeps debris out of your engine—is clogged and dirty, your bike's performance will suffer. "Changing an air filter is not necessarily a hard task, but it can be a time-consuming one," says Olesen. Sometimes the air filter is easily accessible, but you may have to remove the gas tank and other parts to get to it. Once you get into the air box, take out and replace the air filter. Then reinstall anything you removed.
3. Maintain Tire Pressure And Tread
To check a tire's pressure, locate the valve stem on the wheel, remove the cap, and press an air pressure gauge onto the valve stem. Compare the reading to the recommended cold inflation pressure listed in your owner's manual or on the sticker on your bike's frame or swingarm—not the maximum PSI molded into the tire sidewall. That sidewall number is the tire's maximum load-carrying pressure, not the pressure your motorcycle manufacturer recommends for everyday riding.
Your manual may list different pressures for solo riding versus riding with a passenger or luggage, so adjust accordingly before a loaded trip. Check pressure when the tires are cold—after the bike has been parked for at least a few hours—since heat from riding temporarily raises PSI. Never exceed the maximum pressure listed on the tire sidewall.
Use an air compressor (available at many gas stations) to fill the tire to the correct number of pounds per square inch (PSI). Let out some air if you over-inflate. Replace the valve stem cap when done.
To see how your tread is doing, check the tire's wear indicator—a small rubber bar molded into the grooves of the tire. If the tread is worn down to the level of the wear bar, it's time for a tire replacement—a job for a professional mechanic.
4. Change The Coolant
When it's time to change the coolant—which helps prevent your engine from overheating, freezing, or corroding—remove any necessary bodywork to gain access to the coolant drain bolt, then place a drain pan under the engine and remove the bolt. To make sure everything drains, remove the radiator cap. Once the process is complete, reinstall the drain bolt.
Before adding new coolant, flush the system. Residual old coolant can react with a different type or brand of coolant, reducing performance or even causing clogs. With the drain bolt reinstalled, fill the radiator with distilled water, start the engine, and let it run until the thermostat opens and the cooling fan cycles (per your owner's manual). Let the engine cool, then drain the water. Repeat until the drained fluid runs clear. If you're switching coolant types or brands, drain and clean the overflow reservoir as well.
Use a funnel to refill the system with the type and amount of coolant specified in your owner's manual—many bikes call for a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water. Put the radiator cap back on and reinstall any bodywork you've removed. Start the engine and allow it to warm up for a few minutes before cutting the ignition. Once the engine has cooled, remove the radiator cap and check the coolant level. Add more coolant, if needed, to reach the amount specified in the owner's manual.
5. Inspect And Maintain Your Brakes
Brakes are one of the most critical safety systems on your bike—and one of the easiest to overlook. Before each ride, visually inspect your brake pads through the caliper openings. Replace them when friction material is worn thin (generally below about 2 mm), when you hear grinding or squealing, or when braking feels weak or spongy.
Check brake fluid level at the master cylinder reservoir on the handlebar (front) and near the rear brake pedal. Fluid should be clear or light amber. Dark, cloudy fluid has absorbed moisture and should be replaced—most manufacturers recommend flushing brake fluid every one to two years, regardless of mileage.
If you bleed or flush the brakes yourself, use only the DOT fluid type specified in your manual (commonly DOT 4), wear gloves and eye protection, and never let the reservoir run dry while bleeding. Pump the brake lever or pedal, open the bleeder valve briefly to release fluid and air, close the valve, then release the lever—repeat until fresh, bubble-free fluid flows through. Brake fluid damages paint, so protect your bike's finish. If your motorcycle has ABS and the lever still feels spongy after a standard bleed, consult your manual or a qualified mechanic—some ABS systems require a special bleeding procedure.
6. Keep A Clean Chain
Most chains these days are O-ring chains, says Olesen; they require less cleaning than the old-style unsealed chains. You'll want to clean the chain when it gets particularly dirty, or at the mileage your owner's manual recommends. When you do, elevate the rear wheel of your bike and put the transmission in neutral, allowing for easy chain movement. Use a gentle bristle brush to get grit and grime off the chain. To lubricate the chain, rotate the back wheel as you apply specially formulated chain lube. "The goal is to evenly coat the chain, to get the lube to penetrate past the O-rings, into the joint," says Olesen. Let the chain sit for five minutes, then wipe off the excess lube with a paper towel.